Sewing Tutorial - Making an easy Cowl Scarf

 

Today I thought I would share with you an easy sewing tutorial to make a Cowl Scarf or 'Snood' using OTY Fabric NZ Cotton Spandex in 220gsm. With all the beautiful prints OTY Fabrics have in both retail and their preorders there are endless choices to make these easy Scarves for yourself or the kids. These are a one size fits all design, they will just sit a bit higher on the neck on Adults than on children. With Autumn here and Winter fast approaching I figured this was an easy project you could whip up on a cold day for the kids (or yourself) to add to an outfit, use up that hidden stash (Come on, we know you have one ;-) ) or when you need a quick easy gift to give to friends. Maybe you have some beautiful fabric that you have been hoarding that you just don't know what to do with? Well how about you sew up these to show the fabric off easily? These are equally able to be done in Double Gauze (OTY Fabric have some gorgeous floral in Double Gauze available in retail right now) you just might find them a little less stretchy when pulling them over your head. Ok without further waffle lets head onto the tutorial...

What you'll need:

• 75cm wide by 50cm long piece of 220gsm Cotton Spandex (Mine is from OTY Fabric)
• Matching thread (or thread of your choice)
• An overlocker or standard sewing machine using a small zig zag stitch to sew up
• Wonder Clips or pins
• Scissors
• I recommend an iron too

How to Sew our Cowl:

Step One:

Cut out your Cotton Spandex 75cm wide by 50cm Long. Fold right side to right side along the width. You should have a nice long tube. Clip or pin raw edges together. Sew seam using an overlocker or standard sewing machine using a small zigzag stitch.

Step Two:

Turn tube right side out and with it facing you smooth down tube pulling the seam into the centre and aligning each side. At this point I recommend pressing with an iron to make sure it sits nice and flat. Fold one raw short end across to meet the other raw end. Clip or pin the seam end together.

Then pull the tube into itself so the right sides are meeting each other and you can again see the wrong side of the fabric. (This bit is really hard to explain sorry) you should have the two raw ends together with both raw edges meeting and the right side facing the right side. 

Clip the raw edges together making a loop (not all edges together in 4 layers but 2 layers only - like a sleeve cuff). Mark a large gap for turning your tube right side out. I leave about 10-12cm.

Step Three:

I find it easier to stitch inside the clipped together loop rather than have the raw edges facing me. So with the raw edges clipped together and the first marker facing you start stitching the raw edges of the tube together until you reach the next marker. You should now have a stitched together tube with a small opening to pull it out through. 

Step Four:

Pull Cowl Scarf right side out through the gap you left in previous steps. At this step you can choose to iron again if needed.

Step Five:

As I am lazy and want this done quickly I tuck the raw edges of the gap back inside the hole and clip them together an then using a small zig zag stitch on my sewing machine I sew the gap closed, catching in a care or brand tag in as I go. And you are done! Wasn't that nice and fast?

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Thanks for checking out my simple tutorial, if you find any issues or errors please comment and let me know!

Vivien

Picklefish NZ | OTY Fabric NZ

Adding a Zipper Shield to Any Pattern

 

Lots of the items I sew that have a zipper I tend to add a zipper shield to protect the skin from the zipper and make it softer and more comfortable for kids to wear. There are many other reasons for a zipper shield and they are actually fairly easy to sew and add to items. I use them on everything from adapted swimwear, to jackets and in my example below a Baby Coversuit. In my example I have used the FREE Lybstes Suit in size 56-62cm (0-3 months). I had some left over OTY Fabrics French Terry and someBrush Sweatshirting scraps so I decided to sew up the Coversuit to test the design. It has many options for closure, from snap closure front, zipper sewn in on an angle or in the option I chose to do a zip running down the central fold line. As I was putting in a zip I decided to add a zipper shield which I often add to items for Babies that have a zipper. There was no shield pattern piece for this design so I decided to just draft one. They arepretty easy to draft and add to zips no matter what you are sewing, closed end or openend zip the concept is pretty much the same. In my example I show you how to addthem to a closed end zipper. Open end you would just omit the way I finish off the end of the zipper shield with the Coversuit. If you want to make your own Lybstes Coversuit with the zipper and shield this tutorial will probably come in handy! Now onto the tutorial...

What you will need:

• A ruler
• a marker (tailors chalk, some sort of fabric marker that washes or irons off)
• scrap of coordinating fabric for the shield (I recommend lighter fabric to prevent it being bulky)
• Overlocker, standard sewing machine with zipper foot
• thread
• Pins or Wonder Clips
• Zipper of your choice
• Item you are sewing up and adding zipper to (unsewn is best)

Steps to add a Zipper Shield:

First off you need to grab your zipper and front of your pattern piece. You need to measure the front edge of your pattern piece to see how long you need the Shield to be. If you are doing closed end like I was you can choose to run the shield right to the end of the outfit and cut off as you overlock. Often I just measure the zip and add an extra 4cm or more to the end of the Zipper Shield piece to allow for the end to be comfortably covered when its within an item. In my example I use a 30cm closed end zip. I measure a piece of fabric 6cm longer at the top of the zip and 5cm longer at the bottom. So for a 30cm long closed end zip I would have a piece of fabric 41-42cm long by 5cm wide.

Measure and cut your zipper shield.

Cut two pieces of zipper shield to your measurements (mirror images of each other) and place right side to right side. Curve the top edge by about 3cm into a half moon shape. Stitch from the top of that curve down to the end on one long side and across the short non curved end. Turn inside out and iron flat. Overlock or finish the raw edges together.

Place your zip facing you onto the shield with the curved edge facing under the zip and away from the edge. Fold the curved end over the zipper end folding the top tape away from the zipper top as you fold. Ensure you have the zipper pull end covered by the curved piece, adjusting the position of your zipper to get the best cover of the curve over the zipper pull. Clip zip in place and fold over the curved end tucking your excess zipper tape to the side. Stitch zipper to zipper shield (baste or just use a straight stitch) 

Clip zipper to shield edge

fold curved end over the zipper pull to cover it

You are now ready to attach the zipper and zipper shield to the front of your item. In my example I have stitched the two front pieces together after making a marker at the 30cm mark which is the end of the zipper. If you have a hood like I do I recommend attaching that first and closing the shoulder seams before inserting the zip. It makes for a tidier edge.

Stitch fronts together marking zipper placement

With front wrong side facing you open out the front edge so you can see the right side. Place zipper shield with zipper facing down against the edge of your front, zipper and shield with overlocked edge against the edge. Clip in place taking care to make sure the top of the zipper shield aligns with your front edge cleanly and that the end of your zipper shield goes against the stitched fabric seam edge not the outer right side.

Clip zipper facing down to front edge

Stitch zip and zipper shield into place using a zipper foot.

Open out and have other side facing you

Fold zipper shield back and clip away from the zipper. With other side of front facing you clip zipper right side with front right side ensuring the zipper top and bottom aligns with your other side of the zipper you already stitched on. Stitch in place with zipper foot. Fold back your zipper tape at the top end and stitch away from the edge. Trim end if needed.

Attach other zipper edge to front edge

Zipper stitched in place.

Flip your item right side out and keep your zipper shield clipped out the way for now. Open zip. Topstitch your non-shield zipper side close to the edge to just before the end of your zipper. Backstitch and cut threads off.

Topstitch non shield zipper edge

Unclip your zipper shield and fold back to under your zip. Close zipper and smooth the shield under your zipper. Starting from where you ended on the other zipper side topstitch catching the end of the zipper shield as you stitch. Continue to stitch around your zipper edge, turning at the end and stitching up the other edge topstitching the zipper in place.

start stitching from where you finished before

stop at zipper end and turn to stitch across

Turn again and begin stitching up the other side

This is what it looks like from behind

One topstitched zipper

You can now go on to finish and sew up your item as your zipper and shield are sewn in place. I hope these instructions made sense and helped you create a zipper shield for your item! Happy sewing :-)

Finished Coversuit with Zipper Shield

Note:

For an open end zip don't add the extra fabric at the end of your zipper shield. Instead only have a seam allowance and stitch the end closed as per the earlier step to sew up your shield pieces. Have it end at the bottom of your zipper where the zipper ends are. You may need to make your shield slightly wider so it can provide more of a wind break or storm cover, but make sure it can comfortably curve over the top of your zipper and still fit at the neckline otherwise it will bunch up and get bulky.

thanks for checking out yet one more of my tutorials

Vivien

Picklefish NZ

Make a FREE Combined Nappy and Wipes Holder

Often in our world we have to carry a spare set of nappies/pullups and a bag of wet wipes for those inevitable changes that are needed when we leave home.  Its not always an easy experience, we find many random places to change that aren't always suitable but needs must.  One of the things that is always helpful is having what you need on hand and easily accessible. So I came up with this design that has two zip pockets, one designed to hold the Wet Wipes packet and allow for the plastic lid to be opened and closed as needed, and the other zip pocket to house a few nappies.  This one is designed to hold the larger nappies and wipes required for when you have older children.  I will add sizing for the smaller version as well in case you want to make one for gift giving to family or friends who have smaller kids.

One of the features I added was a snap strap for ease of hanging off a bag, wheelchair or pram.  I am sure there are many other features I could have added but this what what I came up with.  It fits a size Large Adult Pull-Up like the one shown.  But should fit smaller nappies and pull-ups as well.  There is room for also popping in a small tube of cream and a few other items.  But the wipes packet take up most of the room in this caddy.  

So lets head onto the Tutorial for you.

What you will need for making the Caddy: 

• You will need some Printed PUL for the outer.  I recommend you get some from OTY Fabric NZ (where is where I got mine)
• Some plain PUL or waterproof nylon like Oxford Nylon as the lining. 
• Some Zipper Tape which you can also get from OTY Fabric NZ here
• Clips
• Ruler
• Marker Pen
• Scissors
• Plain Sewing Machine and Suitable Thread

Cutting out your Caddy:

You'll need to cut from the Outer PUL the following pieces:

1 x Outer piece (in Print)

1 x Lining (Plain)

- 16 x 31cm for the Size Medium (average size Nappy Wipes and Nappies) or a piece 18 x 36cm for the Large Size.

Also from the Print cut a piece of Print for the Back. 

-  18 x 31cm for the Medium Size and

-  22 x 36cm for the Larger Size Caddy

Plus 2 x Back Lining pieces of the same size (as above)

1 x Outer Top Strip 6cm x 31cm for the Medium or 6cm x 36cm for the Large in Print and 1 x Lining.

You will also need two strips of the print for the strap.  10cm wide by 20cm long.

Fold your outer front lining piece in half and mark the centre at the top and about 7cm down from that marker on the wrong side.

If you have a cut out plastic lid from your wipes Caddy you can trace around it (as shown in the photos) to mark where to stitch 

Lay your outer printed PUL over your lining right sides together and pin the two pieces together around the marking you made for the opening. (ignore the fact I cut my hole out in the photo - I don't recommend doing that)

Stitch around your oblong shape marking to create the area to cut out.  Clip the centre of your hole and trim around all the stitching leaving a thin seam allowance.  

Clip along the seam allowance close to the stitching as shown to ease the seam open when turning.

Turn fabric right side out through the opening and smooth flat.  Clip sides together and topstitch around the opening edges close to the edge.  Cut two 3x3cm squares from the corners of each side of the bottom of your front piece away from the oval opening (and through the lining underneath as well)

Cut a piece of zipper tape (with pull) slightly longer than 31 or 36cm depending on which size Caddy you are making.  Lay your zipper along the top of your Caddy front piece right sides together and clip in place. Stitch zipper in place.

Place your Outer Top piece right sides to right sides with the other side of the zipper and Clip in place. Overlay your lining piece right sides to the zipper tape as well.  Stitch through both pieces attach zip as one,

Topstitch along the zipper edge and clip all the way around the front piece and lining.  Baste the two pieces together.

Cut a 3x3cm square from the top of your front upper piece at each corner. 

On one of the Back Lining Pieces cut 3x3cm squares from each corner as shown.  Also do this for your other lining piece and the Back outer piece (Print)

Cut a piece of zipper tape (36cm) that is slightly longer than the top of your Front piece.  Clip the zipper to the top of the front piece between the two squares. Also clip one of the Back Lining pieces to the other side of the zip, right sides together.  Stitch to the zipper and the lining and the top of the front piece all as one.

Fold back and smooth.  Topstitch close to the zipper tape.   

Clip your other Back lining and the Back Outer (print) to the other side of the zip either side of it.  Right side of the Print to the right side of the zipper tape and the right side of the Back lining to the wrong side of the zipper tape.  Clip and stitch through all layers catching your zip between.  

Smooth back away from the zip and topstitch close to the zipper.

Fold your strap pieces in half and smooth to create a fold line.  Fold your edges into the centre to meet that fold line and clip.

Fold over one end so its like the picture overlapping the bits and stitch across the end.  Fold back to the right side and smooth.

This is how the strap ends should look once done.

Clip along your two straps folded in half and half again.  Topstitch along both sides and the folded end.

The finished Straps.  

Fold out the Caddy outer and lining like the photo and clip around all outer edges.  Mark an opening on the lining bottom for turning out the caddy.  Stitch around all edges.

Trim away any excess zipper tape and poke your straps through the cut box corners at the top and bottom of one side.  Fold up and clip your box corners and stitch across them to close the corner opening, catching your straps as you stitch. Trim away any excess strap as needed.

Stitch across the corners catching in your raw strap ends.  Close all the other box corners including at the zip ends.  Do this for the lining and the Outer pieces.

Fold back and smooth the lining opening.  Pull the Caddy out through the opening and smooth.

Pull the lining back out of the caddy and tuck the lining seam allowances back into the opening.  

Topstitch the opening closed and tuck the lining back into the Caddy.

Your finished Caddy.  Now time to put on the snaps on our straps.

You'll need one socket and one stud attached to each end of your strap that overlap each other.  Along with caps.

Attach your snaps as shown.  Or sew velcro pieces to each end instead. 

And you are finished :-)

thanks for following another of my tutorials and I hope this Caddy comes in handy.

Vivien