Saturday, 28 March 2026

Adapted Series - Adding a Gtube/PEG Access Hole


Years ago when I first started Picklefish Products NZ, there wasn't many options for those of us with kids with extra needs. I had to create my own products and through many trial and errors I came up with varying methods and techniques over the years.

One of those I learnt to do over the years was this Welt Pocket/Opening to allow access to PEG/Mickey sites and also to cover the site up and prevent the PEG being rubbed, or curious fingers pulling on the tubing or Mickey.  The tubing could pass out through the hole and be safely and if you add a snap to the welt edges you can close the opening to protect the PEG and secure the tubing.  There are many ways you can use this technique to provide an opening.  You could use it to modify store brought Bodysuits, Onesies, sweatshirts or whatever you like. 

This is a technique I used in the past and it has been successful at providing a robust opening but it will depend on the interfacing used, the fabric and how its used.  

You will need the following to create the GTube Welt Opening:


  • Iron On Interfacing scraps (medium weight interfacing specifically for knit fabric works best) 
  • Scraps of knit fabric that coordinates with the fabric of the outfit you will be modifying.  (I recommend Cotton Spandex or 100% quilting cotton if you are modifying a non-knit item)
  • Pins
  • Tailors Chalk or something to mark your fabric (preferably something that will wash off)
  • Ruler or Measuring tape.
  • Standard Sewing Machine with matching thread.
  • Ring Snap and snap press or pliers (optional you don't have to add the snap - you could also sew on a bit of velcro prior to sewing on the strips to help with closure).






First off you will need to find the centre of the top or Bodysuit you will be adding the Welt Pocket to.

Place your ruler on the centre mark of the neckline. Measure down approx. 23cm for sizes 5-8 years up to about 26cm for sizes above.  I suggest you measure on the person the top is for so you can figure out the best position for the hole.








On the right side mark the centre where you will make the hole.

From that marker measure out approximately 6-8cm from the centre each side and place marks left and right.

Also on the back (wrong side) place the same marks.









From your interfacing scrap cut a rectangle piece about 2cm wider than your measurement above (usually about 18cm long and 8cm wide) 







Also cut two strips about 18 cm long by 2cm wide for interfacing your welt strips.






Also cut two strips of your coordinating fabric about 4cm wide by 18cm long.  Iron the two interfacing strips you cut above to the wrong side of each of the pieces of fabric.





On the wrong side of your top or Bodysuit iron on the rectangle across the markers you placed.  

Draw a line about 16cm long and diamonds each end about 1.5 cm wide.  





Fold your two strips in half longways and press with an iron.

on the front (right side) of your top or Bodysuit pin the two pieces of interfaced fabric aligning their centres with the centre mark you originally made. Pin the strips in place.

Stitch the strips into place from 2cm of each end and about 1cm from the raw edge.




Grabbing a stitch ripper, slash a small hole between the two strips of fabric then cut along the marker you made and cut on a diagonal to each end of the stitching making a triangle between the strips. (see photo above)





Pull back the strips and clip diagonally to the end of the stitching to create a little triangle piece between the two ends of the strips.








Push the strips through the hole you made and press them flat.  






Make sure that they overlap slightly at the ends with the lower strip as the forward facing strip overlapping the upper strip.  Make sure the triangle pieces fold up and back and away from the opening too and are pressed under the strips.








This is how to should look from the right side, as you will see the triangles are out of the way and towards the wrong side.  The bottom strip overlaps the upper strip. You can pin the two strips together to hold them in place at this point if you want.








From the right side stitch the outer edges of your Welt 'pocket' hole ensuring the strips lay flat. Use a straight stitch.








Your finished Welt 'pocket' should look like this when finished.







Add snap to the centre of the opening strips (or sew on velcro strips) and you are done.

Thanks for following another of my Adapted Tutorials.

Please leave a comment if you find anything confusing or want to say thanks :-)


Thursday, 20 November 2025

Ready, Set, Sew! Make Your Own Waterproof Beach Bag With Fun Fabric

This season I wanted to make a bunch of Waterproof Beach Bags to gift to our sons school for End of Year presents.  It needed to be wheelchair friendly, easy to use, fast to make and use up some of the waterproof fabrics I had in stash from the past year or two.  I had lots of technical fabrics leftover from making my old Wheelchair Capes.  So this seemed like a perfect way to consume the fabric and make something fun as a gift as well.  I had plenty of OTY Fabric NZ PUL prints in fun designs, including some designs I had designed for OTY Fabric myself!  The amount of Drawstring Bag tutorials out there is overwhelming, and many were close to what I wanted to do but somehow, not.  So as per usual I borrowed a couple of ideas from other sources and combined them to come up with this fast easy tutorial that uses a fun waterproof fabric like PUL and the body of the bag can be a basic plain Waterproof fabric like Sailcloth, Oxford Nylon or even PUL as well.  

So if you too are looking for a bag to gift, or even use yourself this summer then I hope you enjoy what I came up with and find it useful too!


What you will need:

  • Waterproof fabric for the main bag (Oxford Nylon, PUL, Sailcloth, Coated Cotton etc)
  • a Fun fabric for the outer pocket (PUL - I got mine from OTY Fabric NZ here)
  • a 30cm closed end zip
  • Thread
  • Scissors or Rotary Cutter
  • Chalk or Pencil for marking
  • Ruler
  • Wonder Clips and Pins
  • 25mm Webbing for the Tabs (or create wee tabs using PUL scraps)
  • Rope for the Drawstring Straps
  • Standard Sewing Machine with 90/14 needle or 100/14 Leather Needle 


How to Cut your Bag:

You will need to cut the following items out of your fabric:
  • 2 x 40x49cm Main Bag pieces (in plain Waterproof fabric)
  • 1 x 10x40cm Upper Pocket piece (in printed PUL)
  • 1 x 20x40cm Lower Pocket piece (in printed PUL)
  • Some 2cm x 4cm scraps of Printed PUL for the zipper ends
  • 2 x 10cm long pieces of Webbing for the Tab Loops


Sewing your Zip Pocket:






Attach the two scrap pieces of the printed PUL to the ends of your zipper as shown.  








Turn and smooth down and topstitch close to the seam













Fold the zip in half meeting the edges of your zip scrap ends where you topstitched.  Using the chalk mark the centre on both sides of the zipper tape. Fold both your Upper and Lower Pocket pieces and mark the centre of each piece














Using the centre markers clip the zip right side to the right side of your Lower Pocket piece.  
Stitch the zip to your Lower Pocket piece.













Using the centre marker on your Upper Pocket piece and your zipper clip the zip to the Upper pocket piece and stitch in place.



















Smooth the printed PUL away from the zip and topstitch along the zipper edge on both sides of the zipper stitching right to the end of the pocket pieces as shown.











Fold over 0.5cm of the top edge of the Upper Pocket piece and clip towards the wrong side.  Topstitch close to the fold to create a hem.










Place the completed zip pocket over one of the main bag pieces wrong side of the pocket to the right side of the main bag piece.  Pin along the Upper Pocket piece below your stitched upper hem.  Continue to clip the pocket around the outer edges of the Pocket and Main Bag piece.










Stitching along the upper pocket hem stitches, stitch the upper pocket to the Main Bag piece.  Continue on to baste the pocket all the way around the outer edges to the Main Bag piece.














Measure up 6.5cm from the lower edge and place the folded 10cm Tab Loops.  Baste in place on the edge as shown.  Repeat with the second Tab Loop.









Sewing Your Bag Drawstring Casing:






Measure down the side of your main bag pieces from the top edge 6cm and place a mark.


















Measure in 1.5cm from that marker and make a line. 














Place your two Main Bag pieces over each other so the upper edge aligns and cut along that 1.5cm line through both sides and both pieces of fabric









Fold the fabric at the cut to create a thin hem, stitch the ends toward the wrong side as shown. Repeat for each side on both bag pieces.






Finish the upper edge either through zig zag stitching, a thin hem, or overlocking the raw edge.















Fold the upper edge over 3cm towards the wrong side and clip the casing in place.


















Stitch the casing down as shown on both Main Bag pieces.







Sewing the Main Bag:






With right sides together place the main bag pieces over each other and align the upper edge where the casing is.  Clip all around the bag pieces.















Stitch the Main Bag together using a 1.5cm seam.














Trim the bag seam close to the stitching














Turn bag right side out and smooth all the seams (don't iron or you will melt the fabric)

Topstitch all the way around the bag seams encasing the seam allowances on the inside and reinforcing at the casing ends.




Threading your Drawstrings:









Cut 2 pieces of rope 1.72m long and sear the ends with a flame if the rope is polyester or nylon to prevent fraying.









Using a bodkin or safety pin thread your rope through the casing on one side and back out through the casing on the other side.  Pass one end of the rope through the Tab Loop. 








Matching the rope ends and making sure they are fairly even tie a knot in your drawstring ends.















Repeat with the second piece of rope but put it through the opposite end of the casing and Tab Loop.  (see pictures)







Optional Zipper Pull/Key Fob:






You can make a fun Key Fob/Zip Pull attachment using scraps of your printed PUL.  You will need a suitable Lobster Clasp and some printed PUL.

Cut your PUL 26cm long by 7.5cm wide.  












Fold the piece in half wrong sides together and smooth the centre to create a crease.  










Fold the sides into that centre marker.












Then fold again to encase the raw edges.  













Clip at the centre and pass your lobster clasp end through that folded piece of PUL.









Fold out the raw short ends and with right sides together stitch a thin seam.  Smooth the seam out and fold the sides back to the centre and then again to create the folded Key Fob as mentioned before.




Stitch the folded fabric along the folded edge to close the strip up, moving the lobster clasp out of your way and stitching in a loop as shown.


Repeat with the other side of the Key Fob to create a topstitched folded edge.

Fold your Key Fob in half keeping the end of the lobster clasp enclosed as shown.  Stitch across the shorter side to keep the lobster clasp enclosed.  


Your Key Fob is done!  Hook the lobster clasp clip end over the zipper pull on your bag and your bag is done yay!




Thanks for following another one of my tutorials.

Vivien







Adapted Series - Adding a Gtube/PEG Access Hole

Years ago when I first started Picklefish Products NZ, there wasn't many options for those of us with kids with extra needs. I had to cr...